Alexander McQueen

ss 1999 ensemble

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An important Alexander McQueen suit ensemble, Look 14 from the Spring-Summer 1999 collection. Worn by the hero model of the show, Shalom Harlow, this museum-grade ensemble showcases McQueen’s creativity, historical reference and attention to detail.

Inspired by the men’s habit à la française of late 18th century French nobility, McQueen reappropriates the silhouette to meet the female figure. The structured coat, worn on the runway without a blouse underneath, features the style’s signature diagonal slope, showcasing slivers of the décolletage and breasts.

McQueen deviates from the traditional embroidered silk used historically in this style, opting for a more modern Prince of Wales check. The silvery-grey tone of the fabric aligns with the collection’s severe palette, however, a unique pink twill is woven in every few lines, accenting this masculine fabric with an almost tongue-in-cheek femininity.

The tailoring of this suit is impeccable, reflecting McQueen’s
Savile Row training. The garment is entirely pattern matched, with the checks lining up seamlessly along the panels of the coat as well as where the two garments meet. A logo graphic was designed exclusively for this collection and etched into mother of pearl buttons that adorn the pants and inside pockets.